Mistake Island Harbor to Marion

One more stop along the coast before jumping off to cross the Gulf of Maine for home.  We stopped into Mistake Island Harbor for our last Maine overnight.  There's lots of ledge to avoid so we approached the entrance slowly until we rounded the north tip of Knight Island and found the preferred anchorage.  Also lots of lobster traps to avoid, and we managed to stay clear of all of them until after we anchored.  Hank then noticed that one of the nearby floats "disappeared."  This is not a good sign, so Hank volunteered to dive under and take a look.  Sure enough, a line had wrapped around the prop as we swung at anchor.  Good work, Hank!

Entrance to the harbor between Knight and Steele Harbor Islands

Wetsuit drying out after Hank dives Mistake Island Harbor!

 We took the dinghy ashore to walk Mistake Island and visit Moose Peak Light.  There's a boardwalk to the lighthouse from the tiny dock at the north end of Mistake Island that prevents damage to the abundant and lush natural vegetation that covers the area. 



Moose Peak Lighthouse

Evening fog rolls into the harbor

 Next morning I cracked open a couple of leftover lobster claws for lobster, mushroom and cheese omelets. 

Good to the last claw!

We had an uneventful sail across the Gulf, and into the Cape Cod Canal the next day.  We anchored at dusk in Marion Harbor in Buzzards Bay the next evening. 


Marion Harbor

On the last day, we left Buzzards Bay and pointed the nose into the wind toward Newport.  I usually go home to Barrington via the Narragansett Bay but the timing of the currents favored turning north into the Sakonnet River.  Passing through the Tiverton area was exciting, with lots of current against us at the old Stone Bridge, followed by a big breath hold while passing under the Sakonnet River Bridges.  Then a great final series of double reefed tacks across the west side of Mt. Hope Bay, under the bridge, and, finally, tying up back in Cove Haven late Saturday afternoon. 

Next summer, Nova Scotia and Cape Breton???

Passamaquoddy Bay

We left Grand Manan early in the morning and zipped across the calm bay into the Passamaquoddy Bay, the lower edge of which is the US but most of the rest is still Canadian waters. We were headed to the New Brunswick town of St. Andrews,  I was able to download NOAA charts of the region, including just enough of the Bay that we were cruising.  First realization is that the southernmost passage into the bay through the Lubec Narrows would not allow Pratique under the FDR Memorial Bridge, which has 47' clearance albeit at high tide.  So we sailed north and looked at going through the Letete Passage.  Even though the seas were calm, currents in the passage can run to 8kts and there are obstacles and a frequently running ferry.  I though twice, then a third time, and decided that since I had never been through there before it wasn't such a great idea.  So that left only one other choice:  Round the north tip of Campobello Island then sail south down the Head Harbor Passage, then turning northwest passing between Eastport Maine and Deer Island, Canada and into the Passamaquoddy Bay.  Good choice!!:

Passing the East Quoddy Head Lighthouse

 

Kayakers under the morning haze

When you turn from SSW to NNW and into the Western Passage it is easy to see how strong, converging currents create the famous whirlpool called the "Old Sow."  We were passing through at high tide so were not going to see (avoid) the whirlpool at its strongest.  But to our surprise there was enough of the whirlpool to give our keel a good jolt or two!

 

The "Old Sow," not so quiet even at high tide

 

With no wind, contrast the glass-like areas that have no current with the immediately adjacent frothing and bubbling within a strong local current:
 

Tiny "mini-piglets" within the otherwise glass surface

Churning within a local current

 

Continuing north into Passamaquoddy Bay, we were visited by the Royal Canadian Mounted Police! We were politely boarded, and asked to see our papers.  Good thing we cleared in at Grand Manan two days prior! 

St. Andrews is a beautiful resort town along the north shore of Passamaquoddy Bay.  The harbor was easy to enter and moorings were plentiful!
 

 On Grand Manan we had experienced the range of tides for which the Bay of Fundy is famous. But the tidal range at St. Andrews was more impressive, especially since that night it was a true Supermoon (or "perigee-syzygy"), when the full moon is at its closest to the earth.  

How low can you go?

Some shots in and around St. Andrews:

 

Downtown

The Algonquin Hotel

 

St. Andrews Blockhouse and Battery

Next we visited Eastport, Maine where we cleared back in to the US.  No lack of tides there, either:

LOW

HIGH

We hung out with the folks at the Eastport Lobster and Fish House, just next to the Deer Island Ferry Terminal.  A fun place, and once again, lobsters were plentiful!!

Daybreak

Next day we sailed by FDR's Campobello retreat, then caught a glimpse of the Lubec Bridge, still too low for Pratique to pass under.

Campobello

 Time to start heading home!  On the way out of the bay we were treated to a few whales saying their goodbyes!  Listen carefully and you can hear their breaths:

 

More Grand Manan

Another "don't miss" spot is Swallowtail Lighthouse, just east of the harbor.  You cross a footbridge across a scenic gorge.  See the heart shaped herring weir off the point?

The lighthouse is supported by shrouds that help to keep it from leaning in a big blow:

 

 

The old lighthouse bell

Great views from the top:

 Also enjoyed the Farmers Market in town:

 

 

All-in-all, Grand Manan is a great place to visit!  Final view:

 

 

Down East Maine and Canada

Cousin Hank drove up to Bar Harbor and met up with us. Then Susan said good bye and Pratique started up north for a cruise of the northern coast, into Canadian waters. 

Winter Harbor

After a nite in Winter Harbor, we shot northeast past the beautiful Roque Island and its crescent beach, and anchored in Bucks Harbor, the site of one of many great lobster dinners to come that week.  An eerie sight near Bucks is the 26 towers of the Navy's VLF submarine transmitter station near Cutler. 

Next stop was Machias Seal Island, which interestingly is claimed by both the US and Canada as their own!  Fortunately no battles for control while we visited!  We anchored off the east side of the island and watched the Atlantic Puffins fly all around us.

After Machias Seal Island we set north for Grand Manan Island, Canada. We passed the west side of the island and rounded the north tip, heading into the North Head Harbor by late afternoon.  Because of the huge tidal range in this area and into the Bay of Fundy, it is necessary to either pick up a mooring or tie up along side one of the commercial fishing boats, a practice which is not discouraged.  We were told of open, large moorings that are on first come-first served basis and picked one up for the night. 

Approaching Grand Manan



Beautiful North Head Harbor, Grand Manan
At right, Pratique and Peregrinus on moorings

Next day we met our neighbors on the adjacent mooring, Odette and Francisco on their beautiful Amel Super Maramu 2000.  Here's their blog:  www.peregrinusduo.com. 



 

We shared after dinner time on their boat, and the four of us went whale-watching during the day on Pratique.  No whale sightings but several ocean sunfish (Mola-Mola) and basking sharks, both of which are really interesting and bizarre creatures!

Basking Shark

Mola Mola

Awesome Double Rainbow

Back in the Harbor